The ancient civilizations that arose along the great rivers of the world relied on robust foodstuffs, particularly grains, to feed villages and armies. Now, those empires are long gone, with only remnants strewn throughout the world. Growing along ditches of the American Southwest, the wild plumes of amaranth lie mostly forgotten, but what is now deemed a common weed was once revered by the Aztecs and used in their religious rituals. 

Outlawed by Spanish colonizers, amaranth is a colorful plant and ancient grain that has survived centuries of colonization. It’s now being rebranded as a powerhouse due to its hidden benefits. Technically a pseudocereal rather than a true grain, its seeds are commonly toasted and eaten with milk and honey. With enough perseverance, some indigenous growers believe it could feed the world. 

 

Why was Amaranth Banned?  

Tourists to the lush, jewel-green valley of Peru can expect the famed Aztec ruins of Machu Picchu. However, few are aware of the gleaming fields of amaranth, glowing a rustic bronze as each individual spike basks in the last rays of the setting sun. With a multitude of stalks towering several feet above the ground, it seems inconceivable that this particular strain of Amaranth (Amaranthus caudatus) was once nearly wiped out. Yet, it was once prohibited just as vices like liquor were. 

Frequently associated with the war god Huītzilōpōchtli (Hummingbird of the Left), amaranth was used by the Aztecs to honor their gods. Amaranth flour was mixed with water (and sometimes allegedly with human blood) and molded into ceremonial objects, cakes and effigies. In the 1600s, amaranth was outlawed by the Spanish, who saw the Aztec idols as a perversion of Christianity. Under colonial subjugation, the ban on amaranth was viciously enforced, and it was only through the effort of seed savers that it was able to persevere. Today, amaranth is grown in small, secluded pockets of the Andes and the Americas where the Spanish have held little sway. 

Because of amaranth’s resilience and resistance in the face of colonial violence, it holds spiritual significance for many rural indigenous communities, who rely on it for economic survival. For them, the cultivation of amaranth is not only a way of life, but a way to retain their ancestral ties. From harvest to storage, great respect is shown towards its existence, with the seeds kept away from negative areas where feuds, alcohol consumption, or bad energy might transpire. 

A Bounty for Mankind 

In the heat of summer, the ruddy sprigs of amaranth flourish. All parts of amaranth are edible, although it is the seed and grain that is the most nutrient dense. Despite its humble exterior – a handful of measly seeds – its legendary worth lies in its nutritional value: amaranth is a complete protein with all nine amino acids. Because of its many benefits, it was once perceived as the flower of immortality by the Greeks and Romans.  

It’s also a very resilient crop capable of thriving in areas with a dearth of water – the very qualities that make it a pernicious weed also make it an extremely climate resistant crop. Amaranth is unique in its ability to survive in varied, rugged terrain, from hilly mountain sides to areas prone to drought and frost. It has also evolved to use C4 photosynthesis, a specialized type that allows it to survive in nitrogen-poor soils. 

When all of these qualities are taken into account, amaranth is seen as a boon that can help solve food deserts and nutrient deficiencies in the most impoverished parts of the world. In Mexico, street vendors can be seen selling Alegria, a sweet treat made from a concoction of amaranth, honey, molasses, and chocolate; in other cultures, the leaves are ground into stew or sliced into ribbons and fried. The flavor profile is distinct but not overpowering: a nutty, earthy flavor that some have noted as being slightly bitter. 

Will it ever be popular?

In the US, the cultivation of amaranth is usually relegated to small, organic farms. Because of its lack of widespread appeal, most people are unaware of its potential profitability, particularly in the food and beauty industries. Since its rise to prominence in the 1970s, the amaranth industry has exploded, commanding a billion-dollar market share with products concentrated in cosmetics, food, and health. Although amaranth has yet to gain a foothold in the US, it has seen success across the Asia Pacific, areas of Mexico, and in far-flung locales such as India and the Caribbean. 

While ancient grains like amaranth have yet to be deeply embedded in the consumer food industry, the rise of health-conscious trends such as quinoa could spur a shift towards its popularity. Still, others are doubtful that it is ever likely to catch on, just as crickets and other bugs are considered distasteful to the Western palate. Reasons for its obscurity include its utilitarian appearance, lack of culinary uses, and the small size of its grains. 

Growing Amaranth in the Garden

Homesteaders and gardeners alike can try growing amaranth in their own gardens. The variety most suited for consumption, Burgundy amaranth, is also highly ornamental. Its texture and height make it a great addition to raised garden beds, where it serves as a majestic backdrop against other ornamentals. Space seedlings 10-12" apart in an area with full sun and well-drained soil. When seeds begin to fall from the tassel, about three months after planting time, it is ready to be harvested, a process that requires you to winnow the seed from the chaff. 

The least complicated setup for winnowing amaranth entails crushing the seeds with a rolling pin, then pouring it back and forth using a sieve to separate the chaff from the seeds. For a versatile bowl in which you can both harvest and serve amaranth, use this salad serving bowl.