In secluded parts of the Andes, potatoes flourish in a dazzling variety of forms, from gnarled and knobby to elongated and ruby-red in color. Some are almost serpentine, twisting like the coils of snakes, while others explode with tuberous growths, as if an ordinary potato has mutated beyond its natural limits. Peru has much in the way of potato diversity – out of the 5,000 varieties of potatoes grown, over 3,000 are from this region. 

Potatoes occupy a comfortable middle ground, not as sorry looking as the unfortunate rutabaga to be deemed as a crop of last resort, not as bland as cooked lettuce to be consumed on autopilot. They also tend to be underappreciated, with few aware of their rich, underlying history. But it’s no hyperbole to say that potatoes changed the Western world. 

 

The Crop that Changed the World

In early Meso-American societies, the potato was king. It was also highly poisonous – wild potatoes from the Andes were fraught with solanine and tomatine, toxic compounds that can kill animals and induce severe nausea. To counteract the toxicity, the inhabitants dipped them in a ‘gravy’ sauce made from clay and water. Gradually, potatoes were bred to be less toxic, though the old, poisonous varieties linger on in traditional villages, eaten more out of custom than necessity. 

The Spanish arrival on the New World spelled many things – the demise of the Inca Empire and the spread of potatoes worldwide. By the late 17th century, the potato had migrated to European soil. Its initial reception was rather lukewarm. 

Deemed by philosopher Denis Diderot as nothing more than sustenance, it was noted to be tasteless and likely to cause gas. Even peasant farmers and the poor, who did not care much for the epicurean tastes of the elite, were reluctant to try potatoes. It was King Frederick the Great, rebranding the potato as a ‘royal vegetable’ by growing it in the fields, who finally persuaded the peasantry to try it. 

Antoine-Augustin Parmentier, originally a French pharmacist who served several stints in prison, subsisting on nothing but potatoes, was another ardent supporter. Using reverse-psychology, he engineered the potato’s ascension by attempting to make it appeal to the aristocracy, going so far as to spread a rumor that a coveted crop was growing in the outskirts of Paris. 

At a time when war and famine stalked the land, the potato was seen as a viable food crop, resistant to plunder. Scholars of history are familiar with Ireland’s devastating potato famine, in which a lack of genetic diversity in potatoes precipitated widespread famine and blight. Despite this, the potato remains a resilient staple that has saved countless lives. 

The Culinary Potential of the Potato

Potatoes are nutrient rich, high in fiber and Vitamin C, and contain antioxidants that help combat free radicals. It can be eaten every day without consequence, as long as you don’t deep fry it or pile on the fat.  

Andean potatoes, some of which are more resistant to frost, vary in taste, though many are said to have a nutty, earthy flavor. While there’s no evidence that the Purple Peruvian Potato was once reserved for Incan royalty, its rich purple color and resistance to disease make it an extraordinary potato variety. One culinary curiosity is chuño, freeze-dried potatoes made by Quechua and Aymara communities of Bolivia and Peru – potatoes that have been left to chill, then trampled by foot. This process imparts a pungent, cheesy flavor that can be off-putting. 

Today, potatoes fall into two cooking categories: mealy (starchy) or waxy. Mealy potatoes such as russets are denser and separate into a dry, fluffy consistency when cooked. They’re ideally baked, mashed, or used in Shepherd’s pie. Waxy potatoes, which are red-skinned or yellow, have firmer, thinner skin. They do not react well to frying and are intended for boiling, roasting, or slicing.  

Potato Varieties to Grow

Some farmers markets will feature heirloom or uncommon varieties of potatoes, though you’re unlikely to find any true Peruvian cultivars, which are rarely grown outside of Peru. Gardeners can also grow their own potatoes – they do well in raised beds, which allow sufficient depth for their roots to extend belowground. Rather than being grown from seeds, potatoes are grown from tubers. Heirlooms can be bought online at reputable marketplaces, such as Makah Ozette fingerling potatoes; cultivariable.com also has some options. 

Potato Recipes to Try

A plain baked potato tastes bland, deprived of many of the tasty toppings that make potatoes enjoyable. However, there’s many recipes that unlock the potato’s true potential – try these out. 

• Potato Beef Stew: If you’re never understood the hype over ratatouille, you’ll find this exceptionally flavor dish a worthy contender – the rich flavor is achieved with tomato paste and shallots. 

• Papas a la Huancaina: A more accessible option to chuño is “Papas a la Huancaina,” a potato dish slathered with a decadent, cheesy sauce whose lactic flavor pairs well with the potato slices. In this recipe, it’s optionally garnished with a boiled egg and olives. 

• Oven Roasted Potatoes: Go back to the basics with this simple, tasty side dish. Seasoned with spices, it's great for whenever you have an abundance of potatoes. 

• Melting Potatoes: Garlic, herbs, and chicken broth combine to create an appetizing dish that makes use of the crispiness of Yukon gold potatoes. Serve with a side of ketchup or other savory sauce for further flavor. 

• Papeta par Eda: A dish found within the Parsi community, this recipe makes good use of leftover potatoes and can double as both breakfast and lunch.